Bill Addison reviews seafood bar Found Oyster in East Hollywood.
A disco ball hangs from Found Oyster’s double-height ceiling, speckling light across the 26-seat room. Shina Williams & His African Percussionists groove from the soundtrack; heads bop while patrons peel prawns and slurp scallops on the half shell. Champagne looks to be the drink of choice for many patrons, followed closely by Coors. On a chilly winter night, when its block of East Hollywood seems especially still, the restaurant feels at once like a refuge and a party.
“This is JoAnne’s recipe for mignonette,” he says, referencing his mom, as he delivers them splayed over ice. The restaurant, narrow and tall, is sandwiched between a vegan grocery store and Mestizo Cafe; the Church of Scientology’s “Big Blue” building looms up the street. Found Oyster brims with stripped-down charm: beige and white checkered tiles, with a cluster of abstract art in one corner; shelves climb the walls, doubling as storage bins, crammed with bottles, books, stacks of tortillas and jarred spices.
Kolender’s fluency in the medium shows up more explicitly elsewhere — most meaningfully, perhaps, in his reconceptualization of lobster bisque. The truth about this Continental-era relic: It’s a bog of monotonous richness; there is never enough lobster to make it worthwhile.This kitchen smartly reverse-engineers it as a lobster roll.
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