Review: In ‘The Times of Bill Cunningham,’ the late fashion photographer tells his own story

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Review: In ‘The Times of Bill Cunningham,’ the late fashion photographer tells his own story
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Mark Bozek's documentary 'The Times of Bill Cunningham' profiles the late New York Times fashion photographer via a 1994 interview.

The great New York Times photographer Bill Cunningham, who died in 2016 at age 87, liked to call himself a “fashion historian,” a surprisingly stodgy term for someone whose street eye for everyday style — whether highborn or low-cost, chic or cheeky — suggested a roving cultural omniscience. In what people wore, he seemed to know who we were.

This is the second documentary about Cunningham, coming nearly a decade after Richard Press’ verité on-the-job portrait, the justly acclaimed 2011 filmBut Bozek’s doesn’t feel like a rehash, primarily because of how front-and-center its subject is in all his boyish ebullience, the lit-up eyes and toothy smile animating story after story about how a hat-making Boston boy from a conservative Catholic household became a sought-after milliner in high-society designer circles post-World War II...

Though Cunningham’s reputation as an equal-opportunity fashion chronicler is legion, he definitely knew what he did and didn’t like. He preferred the sidewalk to runways when looking for how fashion permeated society, natural elegance to camera-conscious posers, and the fashion-conscious to the style-expedient. He viewed many Hollywood stars as illusory figures of superficial glamour who didn’t know how to dress in real life, save Gloria Swanson, who “came close.

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