At LeTour in Chicago's north suburbs, Amy Morton and James Beard award-winning chef Debbie Gold unpack chicken tagine, Burgundy escargots and spicy mussels.
LeTour’s Amy Morton, right, and Chef Debbie Gold stand in their restaurant on Feb. 27, 2023, in Evanston. They’ve known each other for more than three decades and recently opened LeTour, a French and Moroccan inspired restaurant.
LeTour not only road trips around France, but also travels by way of the American Midwest. Morton and Gold, luckily for us, have prepared for this journey their entire lives. All you have to do is sit back and enjoy everything they’ll unpack, from buttery Burgundy escargots to spicy southern mussels, along with the personal stories behind them.You might start with the tagine of chicken, which has become their most popular dish, with tenderly braised legs, breasts and thighs.
It’s not quite like the chicken tagines I tasted in Marrakech, or Paris for that matter, but focused instead on melding a bright bounty of ingredients. “Amy and I went to this little restaurant in New Jersey,” said the chef. “They had a chicken tagine. Amy said, ‘Oh my god, I love this so much. We have to order it.’ And it was OK.”“She just looked at me,” Gold said. “And then she goes, ‘I know you can do better than this.’”founded the steakhouse chain that still bears their name.)
“It was my first restaurant,” said Morton, who would leave the industry for nearly 15 years to raise her family. “It was her first chef job.”Burgundy snails, typically hidden in shells under garlic herb butter, have been whipped out naked on a bowl of silky mashed potatoes studded with bacon and drizzled with persillade. Your server may suggest quickly stirring them in, presumably to hide the bits whose unlovely appearance belie their deliciousness.
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