Remembering Issey Miyake, Pioneer of the Nonconformist’s Uniform
A look from the Spring 1988 collection.In many ways, Miyake represented the meeting of oppositions: fashion and art. East and west. History and the future. The uniform and the nonconformist. Technology and emotion, the machine and the brain, beauty and practicality. It was not juxtapositions he sought, though, but a kind of kinky harmony that radiated warmth.Still, perhaps Miyake’s greatest contribution was the tenacious wearability of his clothes—indeed, the wearability of his ideas.
Clothing that enfolds the body, inviting the wearer to play, is Miyake’s legacy. It is seen everywhere from the work of his peers Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo, who followed in his footsteps to Paris in the 1970s, to that of more recent talents like Simone Rocha, Jonathan Anderson, and Glenn Martens. His work stands for the possibilities of style through fabric, and how the eternal quest for invention is what makes us human.
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