This creamy onion sauce is great for pairing with all sorts of roasted meats.
Soubise, a creamy onion sauce, is a great way to use up extra onions. [Photographs: Daniel Gritzer]It's a rare day that I say to myself,That requires more planning, shopping, and cooking time than I have on most weeknights. More often, I stare into my fridge, scour my pantry, and think,It's tremendous fun, and a rewarding process, to cook methodically through classic recipes. But everyday improvisational cooking is just as important as pulling off a special-occasion dish.
I'd never made the bechamel version before, so I whipped one up just to see what it was like, and indeed it tastes heavier and starchy compared to plain cream. I think the modern cream-based version is the way to go. Blanched onions develop almost no color at all during cooking, staying pearly white throughout, but the flavor isn't as good.
While I was careful not to let the non-blanched onions brown, they still managed to develop a subtle golden hue due to caramelization of the onion's natural sugars; while it's not as pearly white, I preferred the more robust, slightly sweet flavor of these onions in the finished soubise.
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