Proenza Schouler dared us to wear jagged, shard-like pailettes next spring
I didn't expect pailettes would be consciously uncoupled from"2023's resort collections ushered in a fun, under the sea cocktail party aesthetic made up of oversized pailettes and seashells. It evolved from playfully kitschy to juvenile and costume-y in the length of a TikTok. By the time I'd scrolled past what felt like the millionth mermaid outfit tutorial video on my "For You Page" this summer, I craved a detox from sparkles and sequins.
Then came two pailette-spangled looks from Proenza Schouler's latest collection that were unlike anything else I'd seen this year—in person or online.Proenza's collection for next spring refined its emphasis on elegant, slightly twisted everyday wardrobing from the previous season.
Two pailette looks with the jagged edges and dangerous splay of a shattered mirror were interspersed into the middle of it all: one matching set with a square top and skirt, tied with black ribbons, the other a below-the-knee skirt over a sheer, gauzy fabric belted with a white long-sleeve top. I wasn’t at the show to see these pailettes shimmer in person. But I rewatched every Instagram story including them, twice.
The mermaid sequins I’ve mentally outgrown are smooth and pearlescent, with an Ariel costume sheen. Proenza’s embellishments are icy, unruly, and a little dangerous. They shimmer like a vault of heirloom diamonds and they’re delicately sewn atop wispy, semi-sheer fabric that invites you to reach out and touch them—but they could cut you if you’re not careful.
The two pailette-coated looks broke up a collection defined by elevated wardrobe essentials like blazers and car coats.This is sparkle that has bite. And amid a collection of similarly wearable yet visually interesting pieces, they make the case for getting experimental with my everyday. Of the two pailette looks, the skirt styled with the long-sleeve knit is the one I want to wear with the same passion I had for Proenza’s strapless red leather dress last season.
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