'Fancy (But Cheap)' is pretty much our favorite category of thing.
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I was sitting at the altar of flame and beef fat—that is, the chef’s counter of one of San Francisco’s flashiest new steakhouses. The air was thick with the aroma of beef; I felt as fat-washed as the $19 beef-infusedI winced a bit when I ordered my next drink, which, at $21, was one of the more expensive cocktails I tried during my year-long gig as a bar reviewer for the local paper.
My favorite cocktail on the menu arrived in an especially lofty smoke-gray coupe. That glass felt good to hold. It felt good to drink from. The rim was slim. The dusky color that ran through its stem was alluring. I took another sip.And then I found out I was drinking a many-dollar cocktail out of a seven-dollar coupe—one that you or I could easily buy, but thatPlain, clear coupes are a dime a dozen .
feel special since they’re a little dressed up. I love the way their gray tone deepens to black when they cradle a brooding, boozy drink. Their tall profile looks luxe on a bar cart .
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