All the best things to eat between the Sahara and the Mediterranean
"There are as many ways to make gumbo in Louisiana as there are cooks," says chef Frank Brigtsen of Brigtsen's restaurant in New Orleans,"but the thing they all have in common is the use of a roux.
" His rich, hearty version—a"filé gumbo" made with filé or ground sassafras leaves—uses oil leftover from browning chicken to make the roux, increasing the meaty flavor and complexity of the dish. Add the vegetables in two stages to provide different levels of taste and texture, and be sure to cook them until no longer stringy.
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