How the fashion in Once Upon a Time transports us back to Hollywood in 1969, as explained by the film's costume director.
, L.A.’s ArcLight Cinemas hosted a Quentin Tarantino film festival. Fans of the director gathered, many wearing Hawaiian shirts for the occasion. Tarantino has long been an advocate of this polarizing piece of fashion, using it to punctuate the quirky personalities of some of his most memorable characters, including Clarence inThe Hawaiian shirt returns for another cameo in Tarantino’s latest.
Phillips read it in about two and a half hours. “It was incredible, not like any script I’d read before,” she remembers. “It was like reading a really richly layered novel with lots of details and Quentin’s famous dialogue. I went back to my car and started scribbling all of the notes I could. But I understood immediately who the characters were.
Tarantino, Phillips notes, “has a confidence when thinking and talking about costumes that directors don’t normally have.” The director sat in the first few fittings with her, when she and her team were in the process of making nearly all of the costumes . They recreated a snakeskin trench coat that Tarantino had seen in an old photograph of Sharon Tate, and made Rick Dalton look out of fashion in his greaser duds, in keeping with his nearly washed-up career status.
“This isn’t a movie about fashion,” Phillips says definitively. “Fashion is a reflection of the culture, it’s a reflection of what’s happening at a specific time. There were real historic references to trends, but mainly these costumes came from the characters and their personalities as Quentin wrote them in the original script.”
If Tarantino’s films have informed the aesthetic zeitgeist, he remains an accidental fashion influencer. Phillips sees herself that way too. “What the public grabs onto is a mystery to me,” she says, “but with
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