It’s inspiring to eat at a place that clearly means so much to a chef on personal levels, like Oakland’s new fine dining, soul food spot Burdell.
Lady Edison ham plate with melon served at Burdell, a new soul food restaurant in the Temescal neighborhood of Oakland, Calif., on Thursday, Sept. 28, 2023. It’s inspiring to eat at a place that clearly means so much to a chef on deep, personal levels.
It’s too early to answer the national-celebrity question, but the good news is Burdell has made a confident, thought-provoking debut. The basic idea is that the chef is reinterpreting the food of his grandparents – the name’s from his grandmother, Burdell Demby – in dishes like roasted pork neck, greens with berbere and Cathead Sourdough Biscuits with cider-honey butter.
Don’t be afraid to ask the efficient and warm staff questions about what you’re eating. That’s how we learned on a recent visit that a mystery ingredient was seaweed – the chef likes to throw in international touches from places he’s visited or whose cuisine he respects – and why a plain-looking side of white rice was an eyebrow-raising $11. “It’s aged Charleston Gold rice,” our server explained. “It’s hard to find now and almost went extinct after slavery.”It’s your cool grandmother’s house.
For mains, a seasonal dish of blackened black cod over creamed sweet-corn grits is an elegant and restrained version of the charred version you might find in New Orleans. The grits are supremely smooth and made from purple corn, and sweet tomatoes and seaweed broth ties it all together . And the roasted Klingeman Farms pork neck is almost steaklike in its immensity and presentation.
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