The lineage of food rooted in more than 350 years of exile and slavery – its connections and disconnections, presence and absence – can be traced from the Malay Archipelago to Cape Town.
: “Fresh koeksisters, available daily”. It’s advertising the beloved, decadent doughnut infused with spices such as ginger and cinnamon, dunked in a simple syrup and rolled in a fuzzy halo of desiccated coconut. So strictly speaking, it should read “koe’sisters”.
Until the mid-17th century, southern Africa had escaped the shackles of the slave trade, unlike East and West Africa.
7 September 2019: Fatima Sydow presents her popular cookery show, Kaap, Kerrie en Koe’sisters, with her twin sister Gadija Noordien from her home kitchen in Lansdowne, Cape Town. The food of Sumatra, particularly Aceh, contains spices found in Indian and Arabic cookery such as ginger, cardamom, star anise, cloves and nutmeg. Sulawesi foods tend to be fiery, says James Oseland ina. This endures in the Cape Muslim cookery we associate with the region today.
Cape Malay cooks were forced to adapt dishes and over time would alter the nature of Cape cookery with the generous use of spices and herbs. They were sought-after, prized in the brutal system of slavery that commodified human beings. As Afrikaner historian C Louis Leipoldt sets out in“Undoubtedly the most potent influence on Cape cookery has been the methods, tastes and culinary customs of the Malay cooks.
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