Part nightclub and part restaurant, this new Stone Oak steakhouse in San Antonio fails at both.
The gold fetish kicked up again with a 24K Black Martini, rimmed with gold sugar in service of a drink that looked and tasted like Red Bull. Seeking the comfort of a bourbon old fashioned, I paid extra for a whiff of smoke hidden under a wooden cap, an unimpressive tableside display made less impressive when the waiter said the ice cube was too big to really let the smoke soak in.
That same waiter didn’t have the tools to fix that problem, really. The staff here, what happy few there were, seemed out of their depth to represent a menu so ambitious, which really just means expensive. Not much salesmanship, not much encouragement, and on one visit, not even a question about drinks before dinner.
The Stone Oak steakhouse The Ace of Steaks opened in San Antonio in February, featuring a full bar, a covered patio, Ace of Spades Champagne for $750 a bottle and the option of adding gold leaf to any steak.My guy talked up one thing: lobster tacos. Turns out he was right, and it was the best $25 I spent at Ace of Steaks, money that went for pearls of coral-rimmed meat with bounce and sweetness contrasted with creamy habanero salsa. No gold, no sparklers.
The sparkler came again for me, this time with a 44-ounce tomahawk rib-eye, the same one from the $1,000 deal, minus the gold leaf and the bubbles. What my $150 bought was a warclub of a steak cooked rare through the middle, with an inch-thick unrendered fatcap across the top and an uneven sear of crosshatch grill marks. And a sparkler. Call it bone-in bottle service.
Emits Showers of Sparks. At The Ace of Steaks, it’s not just a warning label, it’s a cautionary tale.
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