For some Indigenous chefs, the future of Aboriginal cuisine is getting back to the land.
“I don’t want to say I had a vision, but I knew I wanted to do modern Indigenous cooking,” Keeshig says.
One of his most famous items is sweetgrass ice cream that he blends with harvested duck eggs and natural sweeteners. “We stopped using any sort of white processed sugar. We stopped using ingredients that aren’t coming from Ontario or that we can’t grow or forage ourselves. Instead of using white sugar, we use unpasteurized honey or we use maple syrup to sweeten things. If we have to use sugar, we always try to find organic cane sugar., Keeshig says.
Lemons are another example — they don’t grow in Ontario. “Instead of using lemons, we’ll try and find unripe grapes or we use gooseberries. I think what’s going to be the future for Aboriginal food is really getting back to the land and trying to wean out processed sugars, processed foods, and get back to growing things or going back out into nature and finding these things,” Keeshig says.Another place to eat and learn is Wanuskewin Heritage Park in Saskatoon, Sask.
“I approach cooking to reflect the intimate process of actually harvesting and hunting the food,” Flaherty says. “More often than not, it’s food that I actually hunt and harvest or my husband does. All of our nations have different food sources and for Inuit, for my people, our foods are quite unique.”
Flaherty explains Inuit rely heavily on marine mammals. “That’s the majority of our diet. There’s a real hunger — pun intended — for not only tasting, trying the food, but also a hunger for learning more about Inuit culture. And that’s what I love.”artist in residence at the Penticton
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