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As Storm Eunice blew over London today, Matty Bovan and his guests sought refuge in the crypt of St. Martin-in-the-Fields on Trafalgar Square. Aptly, he titled his collection Cyclone: a force that causes “chaos and destruction—even beauty—in the wake of its power.” He was talking about the pandemic, but you could say the same for the organized chaos that embodies his work. Some find it messy, others soulful.
Enter America, a place—Bovan argued—that has so many cultural divisions which all lay claim to its national iconography that those symbols have become universal. “They’re very fun to subvert. Like England, they don’t really belong to anyone,” he shrugged. The Yorkshire-based designer was wearing a Carrie Bradshaw-style necklace with the name Derek on it in homage to his American musician boyfriend, who spends part of his work researching undiscovered folklore music from America.
How did Connecticut react to the designer's otherworldly appearance? “Well, I’m kind of used to it. But I’m not ridiculously out-there. I still wear jeans and…” he paused. “I mean, it still looks weird. But it was good. It was fun. I’ve looked at England for so long, I needed to look at something else. America is very easily parodied and there’s a lot of iconic symbols—the star, the stripe—which I like to play with.
As did a series of repurposed classics from collaborations including Vivienne Westwood, Adidas, Converse All-Star, Alpha Industries, and Calvin Klein. The feeling was echoed in the de- and reconstruction of bomber jackets and parkas—some spliced together—and a beautiful hand-painted blouson with the words “Hopeful” and “Bad Dreams” spelled out within its abstract motif. But the political element here was above all in the casting.
A few weeks ago, Sean Penn incited fury when he argued that “cowardly genes… lead to people surrendering their jeans and putting on a skirt.” You wonder what he would think of Bovan’s young bodybuilder dressed in a stretch velvet body-con dress emblazoned with an all-over “faux butch” USA print, worn under a tight, deconstructed floral pioneer apron.
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