Margaret Howell's fall 2022 collection is here. See every look:
The quiet beauty of Margaret Howell’s work reveals itself over time: the quality of a jacket that develops a charming, weathered patina as it’s worn in over the years, or the sense that her hefty knits are robust enough to be passed on from generation to generation. It’s a spirit that informs her approach to seasonal collections, too.
This time around, changes came in the increasingly magnified proportions Howell has been playing around with over the past few seasons. There were casual, workwear-inflected blazers that came boxy and oversized—cut in everything from luxurious black velvet to thick, satisfyingly chunky gray tweed to tough Japanese moleskins—as well as shirts with playfully exaggerated large collars and baggy trousers that were deliberately sliced above the ankle for a shape that felt firmly of the moment.
“I think some of the archive pieces are still very relevant, but obviously we always give them a new interpretation with fabric, color or length,” said Howell of this process of rediscovering and updating. “We do design very wearable clothes, but it’s great fun to mix them up and find there’s something fresh in them still.” She noted that when pulling a standard ’70s shirt from the archive and laying it alongside one from 2022, they look like they’re made for David and Goliath.
Another way in which the 75-year-old designer’s endless curiosity continues to impress is in her shrewd instinct for collaboration—whether her decades-long relationships with the textile mills she visits every season in person to touch and feel their latest fabrications, or her ongoing partnerships with specialist garment manufacturers like the coat makers Mackintosh and cobblers Tricker’s, each of whom feature in Howell’s current collection.
The idea of slinky swimsuits cut from technical fabrics entering the rarefied world of Howell’s designs, which one tends to associate with a certain kind of mid-century-obsessed, chic London literary type or discerning Tokyo design junkie, is not as strange as it might initially seem. “It's always been casual, hasn’t it?” Howell said of her work. “It’s meant for an active life, and for the individual choice of putting this with that.
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