In between design commitments, Marco De Vincenzo could easily give one or two lessons in pressure management, as “super serene, zero stress” was how the Etro creative director felt a few days before presenting his first men’s collection for the brand.
offered greater clarity on the design seeds he’s planting at Etro, with a deeper development of the rich texture and clean silhouettes he’s put at the core of his vision.
Some of these renditions will have an optical effect, including one that holds a special place in the designer’s heart. “This derives from a blanket I had when I was little and I had it replicated because I thought it was perfect for this [collection],” he said, holding a blazer jacket splashed with an overall geometric motif rendered in purplish tones. A subtler version worked with tonal colors stood out on a roomy long coat instead.
As a counterpoint to the flashy patterns, the designer continued to push clean looks combining just two or three pieces for easy approachability, and included monochrome separates that could still express the brand’s ethos but in a less literal way. In the process, he didn’t forgo that romantic touch his predecessorLittle details like floral embroideries on buttons embellished sartorial classics and wardrobe essentials with a delicate touch.
Lending these discoveries to Etro is a process that is teaching him a lot, too, said the designer. “I started my namesake brand from scratch, but working for established brands is giving me the opportunity to change. Just like actors in action, I’ve stepped in another story, another family and I’m happy not to be armored in an aesthetic that has become prison,” he said.
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