On the last day of New York Fashion Week, two designers reminded us that clothes aren’t just about fabrication, technique, and theme–they’re about humanity.
When New Yorker F.W. Woolworth was first starting out as a young kid working in a stock room, he was told by his superiors that he wasn’t a very good salesman. As we all obviously know, he proved them wrong. This is a blip of business lore that reflects some of the universal aspects of the American dream construct: an unassuming guy turning into a titan of business with brains, a few bucks, and a lot of scrappiness.
In his show notes Chavarria described this season’s collection, which is technically menswear but really made for anyone, with the words “romance” and “dilapidation.” It was that very tugged-from-real-life juxtaposition that made this offering so moving at the end of a long, hot summer and a week dotted with safe, commercially viable collections. While last season he stuck to a darker, more restrained sensibility, this time around he pumped up the glamor while maintaining a sweet lightness.
There were beautifully tailored, boxy jackets, some with exaggerated shoulders, as well as football jersey pullovers that were decorated with balloon sleeves. Tank tops thrown on under billowy open shirts and paired with easy trousers felt like the ultimate flex of urban effortlessness, as did a track pant and jacket over a distressed tee emblazoned with an upside down “USA.
The same feels were felt during the very last show of the week: Luar. Designer Raul Lopez has had a remarkable rise to fame over the last couple of seasons, though no one should forget that he’s been at this a very long time. He’s worked his ass off to find a footing in the industry, beginning his career with a more experimental bent but morphing into someone who has a sellout ‘it’ bag and a LVMH prize nomination under his scripted “L” belt.
Born and bred in New York, Lopez has managed to cultivate a highly lauded label while always maintaining a tight grip on his roots. This season was all about the balance of self and being one’s own savior–a theme that makes Lopez emotional as he acknowledges his own difficulties remaining true to his point of view .His deconstructed, sex-positive clothes have origin stories that tie back to his upbringing in Brooklyn, his Dominican culture, and the women who raised him.
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