The world's top designers have come full circle in their response to exactly what French fashion is.
All of a sudden, wearability has become the watchword of the season. It began sprouting during New York Fashion Week and gathered momentum in London and Milan, but in Paris, normally the temple of the High Style Creative , it has practically become a mantra. It’s another word, really, for pieces.The big coats that have been everywhere this season, for example.
Or a cool pair of trousers, like those slouchy, low-slung tweeds on view at Stella McCartney, who backgrounded her show with a troupe of unrestrained horses that cantered, rolled and otherwise performed for a trainer whom a documentary film called the “horse whisperer.
Sometimes it is there to challenge us to rise to an occasion; to force us out of our comfort zone to imagine other worlds, other possible selves. But other times, it’s there to solve our problems and make it a little easier to get through the day – at least when it is smart, rather than banal .That has always been the essence of Hermes, where designer Nadege Vanhee-Cybulski leaned hard into deep-pile cashmeres and suedes in ruby, bronze and gold, layering pieces to create the most luxurious hug.
See simple silk dresses screen-printed with blurry images of other dresses, other trenchcoats on front, like a souvenir. Or oversize cardigans knitted to blouse out at the hips as if they had been belted even though they had not, over matching knit culottes . T-shirts and trousers made entirely of layered goose feathers. Leather jackets cropped and molded into Playmobil shape.
A smattering of ideas – if you don’t like one, just turn your head: There’s another! – all of which tickle the imagination, rather than zap it.The New York Times Company
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