Looking for a Book: The ceviche is fresh at Go Fish, but the concept may need time to stew

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Looking for a Book: The ceviche is fresh at Go Fish, but the concept may need time to stew
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Go Fish appears to have abandoned its original fish market premise, along with most entrée sized menu offerings.

Go Fish Wine Bar is one of the latest entries in the expanding San Antonio restaurant empire of Emily and Houston Carpenter.

A look at the menu at Go Fish Wine Bar, one of the latest entries in the expanding San Antonio restaurant empire of Emily and Houston Carpenter, suggests that making a book will be very hard indeed. For now, at least, red snapper is the only fresh fish appearing more than once, and the treatments of other offerings are so different as to render the varieties of seafood moot.

Though not displayed in fillet form alongside the bottles on ice, the snapper in the ceviche was impeccably fresh. It was also dominated by a soupy blend of chopped strawberry and tart, pickled rhubarb. Mint put in an appearance as did a side container of what I'd imagine to be fried shallot and chili crisp. There was a mound of torn butter lettuce whose only function seemed to be as a plate-filler. Whole leaves might have invited taco-making, on the other hand.

The notion of fish chorizo was admittedly intriguing. It called to mind shredded, smoky marlin I once had on the Mexican Pacific Coast near Mazatlan. And if the idea was to emulate the traditional, meaty version, I have to say that they nailed it — orange-hued oil and all. The shatteringly crisp taco shells were also faultlessly executed — a solid reminder that they remain a viable component of the Tex-Mex canon.

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