Jonathan Anderson, it seems, can do no wrong. Loewe’s Northern Irish designer’s imaginative and boundary-pushing designs are often credited by front-row editors as among the best, if not the best, gracing the Paris runways today.
And Saturday’s fall collection, with its broken shards of plaster littering the set’s edges, only confirms this. It sent the Spanish heritage house — and its VIP guests — into an off-kilter, stripped away world of Old Masters, boyhood, vulnerability and dreams.A baffling painting of a schoolboy — half-naked in underwear, tie strung around his neck, reclining in a classical pose — dominated the central portion of the runway theater in-the-round.
Looks were intentionally incomplete — bare torsos on shimmering loose gold shorts, pale legging undergarments with a sort of codpiece, big leather boots with no pants. This broken, raw, incompleteness on the young male models — much like the shards of plaster crunching under guests’ feet — gave the collection an emotional depth, evoking a sense of vulnerability and innocence.
The pieces de resistance? Two exaggeratedly thick coats in cork and cerulean with an Elizabethan feel that were tucked at the hem like a parachute and worn over a naked body.A 1,000-seat music hall with string quartet ensemble, an afterparty where the drinks flowed like Ancient Rome and celebrity musical performances that warbled well into Friday night.
And this fall collection did see him hone his craft — slightly — shifting out of the house founder’s shadow.
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