Jonathan Anderson’s latest collection for Loewe was full of bright, LED-lit clothes that questioned the role of clothing in the digital world.
, but ultimately we all get dressed in the morning in order to get down the stairs. Here was a show that went from the first pre-caffeinated glimpse of the bathroom mirror — quite literally, with domestic sinkholes as eyelets — all the way to the images we see of ourselves on backlit phones throughout the day, or staring back at us during endless Zoom calls.
LED lights were somehow worked into garments, glowing from beneath waistbands and coat flaps and glimmering from within the shaggy fluff of shearling coats. Heart-shaped balaclavas hinted at the novelty Instagram filters we’ve come to amuse ourselves with. Wide-hopped knits that contorted the silhouette into dramatic-esque sculptures resembled a body in the process of being dramatically Facetuned, warped in different directions.
In terms of the clothes, interestingly it mostly consisted of familiar archetypes: blue jeans, Breton sweaters, overcoats, camo pants, shearling parkas, white T-shirts. Each one was given a twist, framed by plenty of flesh, from bare chests to bare feet, to emphasise the physical form — rather than its digital duplicate. Here, the body was manipulated and questioned by the clothes. At times, it was difficult to figure out if the body was the point of arrival or departure.
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