The best things Jenn ate last week, including shawarma at the new Saffy's, kimchi pizza at Olivia in Koreatown and Laotian sausages in Westminster.
, recently opened Saffy’s as a more casual operation centered around a menu of kebabs and shawarma. That shawarma is the result of months of trial and error, testing and retesting, inspired by a trip halfway around the world to visit chef Musa Dagdeviren of Çiya Kebap and Çiya Sofrasi in Istanbul and stage for two days in his kitchens.I tried to contemplate the work, thought and airline miles that went into the dish before me.
The meat melts into itself, rich with umami, the sweetness of the beef fat and just a whisper of gaminess from the lamb. It melts into the laffa too, taking on an almost creamy quality nestled in the hot bread. It’s served with cool tahini, the smallest dollop of ajika hot pepper paste and a spoonful of chopped onion, parsley and sumac salad that looked and tasted refreshingly green.
There is nothing subtle about the grilled sausages at Nok’s Kitchen in Westminster. They are the meat equivalent of an exhibitionist — a show pony of flavors. You could make a meal out of just a couple of them. With pronounced textures, spice and sour zing, they have the complexity of fine wine and satisfy like a composed dish.boasted on a recent visit. “I make it with lemongrass, garlic, red onion, scallion, black pepper and chile flake.
She coarsely grinds the pork butt for the sausages, along with the aromatics. One bite might surprise with a quarter clove of garlic. In another, you might find a whole piece of diced scallion or a sliver of red onion. The bitter, almost floral sharpness of the lemongrass is ever-present.
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