“They should walk like that, and they should just be whoever they are, even if they’re a little nervous on the runway. That’s what I want in the show.”
. “Experience” is a more applicable verb than “see” for the crowd’s engagement with Shui’s Autumn/Winter 2020 collection; cheers replaced polite golf claps, and I itched to get on my feet as the audience bounced in their seats to a Jennifer Lopez remix by native Brooklyner.
A different designer, Shui says, might call a wobbly catwalk “unprofessional,” “awkward,” “uncomfortable.” Not Shui, who sees a misstep from a model as an expression of energy rather than amateurism. Bringing potentially unwelcome elements to high fashion is a sort of Shui tenet; her work feels like opening the windows of a pristine showroom and letting in some welcome, raucous noise from the street. A daughter of Chinese immigrants who spent her adolescence in Rome, Shui shows her appreciation for her heritage through innovation, manipulating traditional fabrics for the base of many of her outfits.
ike her garments, Shui’s response is ready to go and full of verve: “Do you want to keep these elements in the coffin?”Purity can grow tiresome, and this includes the sequestering of high fashion from both the pedestrian and the overtly sexy. “Basically my vibe is usually just like having things look expensive, but at the same time looking like you might’ve gotten that from Chinatown for $10,” she says.
Usually I mix all the images together. My inspiration doesn’t necessarily come from one image at once.”“I found that somewhere on the internet. I liked the sari element in that photo. I mean, the water, the nature part of things. There’s something so calm about that image. It’s the draping of what they’re wearing, and there’s the water splashing out. There’s this mood that I liked about it.”
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