Just in: Julien Dossena, who marks his 10th anniversary as creative director of Paco Rabanne this year, will be the fifth guest designer to present a couture collection for Jean Paul Gaultier.
Hi Julien, congratulations! What’s your first memory of Jean Paul Gaultier’s work?
For me as a teen, and later as a [fashion] student, that was always a path to follow. And it still is in the way I work today. What I’ve always loved about Jean Paul’s approach is his constant curiosity, his way of exploring different registers and tastes. There are no boundaries to what he does: for some designers, a jacket is a jacket and it stays the same for 40 years. With Jean Paul, there’s this sense of no limits, no borders, and no holding back, which I find very generous and audacious.
For Paco Rabanne, the principle was different: it was a brand that didn’t really exist anymore in fashion, and in the beginning there were limited expectations because it was a long-term project. It was really: how do we establish a new vocabulary for this house while, obviously, respecting the DNA and trying to open it to the present. Because the house was really about niche techniques—which are really important—with mesh and metals.
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