When you poll Jonathan Gold's friends, what you find is that when he was gathering people at his house in Pasadena for a night off from eating out, that fried chicken was what he made.
We remember Jonathan Gold with the gift he gave to everybody whether they ate with him or not.
“Jonathan loved restaurants more than anyone I ever will know, but he loved cooking for his family and friends even more. He could probably cook most anything, but whenever I went over for dinner he was mostly making his take on comfort food: pots of red beans and rice, gumbo, hoppin’ John, roasted meats and birds, skillets of vegetables. And fried chicken.
Margy Rochlin, writer and family friend, took notes on Jonathan’s fried chicken, which informed the recipe below: “I can picture it so clearly: For most of the party, he’d be standing in bare feet, right next to the never-used microwave that, over the years, had become a place for storing napkins, dressed in a pink Brooks Brothers shirt and beige khakis, frying chicken for hours. He always made something like meatless beans, earmarked for Manohla Dargis and other vegetarians. Leon and I would often be on collard green duty, removing the leaves from the thick stems.
“The chicken fried in olive oil was spectacular. It was like a cross between the stuff you’ll find at Willie Mae’s in New Orleans and Thomas Keller’s Ad Hoc bird. But I often think about that chicken fried in lard. The coating was crisp, then melted in your mouth with a foie gras unctuousness. While the oil heats, assemble a frying station: Set a rimmed baking sheet next to the stove and line the bottom with a double-thick layer of paper towels. Place a wire rack upside down over the paper towel-lined sheet. In a large bowl, combine the flour, salt, pepper and oregano and whisk to combine. Transfer the seasoned flour to a large brown paper bag.
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