This NYC TikTok steakhouse scores with an affordably beefy set menu and unlimited fries, critic qualityrye writes (via EaterNY)
, it will likely sport a garlicky marinade or bright chimichurri to keep the meaty flavors in check. At a Euro-leaning spot, the kitchen might offer it as a cheaper alternative to a pricier cut — and finish it off with a pat of herby butter to soften the punch.
Here in this 29th Street space, however, chef Tourondel, late of the BLT empire, serves the skirt in such a way to emphasize its feral perfume. It’s a cut that can make organ-y French pates taste mild by comparison. Or as I like to put it, it’s a steak that actually tastes like steak. This is a good thing.During each of my visits, the skirt boasted a gently burnished exterior and a tender interior.
It’s not necessarily the type of steak most people would want to eat every day; then again, I’d counter that steak is not the type of thing we should be eating every day. There’s also something nice about enjoying a modest portion of beef with a rich, iron-y finish rather than an unwieldy cut that has all the flavor of textured ocean water — as is the case at so many steakhouses. The wagyu steak, incidentally, was virtually indistinguishable from the cheaper cut.
As for the rest of the meal, it’s good enough. The Boston bibb lettuce salad, loaded with fragrant dill and lemony mustard vinaigrette, wouldn’t feel out of place at a good Parisian neo-bistro. The free bread — and $10 garlic bread — is worth leaving on the table or feeding to the neighborhood birds. The fries are golden and slightly limp. You eat them not so much for pure potato flavor as you do for starchy relief from the steak.
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