Two new Indonesian restaurants indicate that the Southeast Asian cuisine is gaining popularity across Los Angeles.
market added a small cafe to its operation in 2005, we were both in college. We met at the Palms restaurant for banana leaf-wrapped nasi bungkus and bowls of soto betawi.Finding the flavors of Indonesia in L.A. — from a church, a mosque and a consulate parking lot
With the recent openings of Wayang Restaurant in the San Gabriel Valley and LaaLaaPan in Woodland Hills, it’s time Indonesian food had its moment in Los Angeles.Nasi goreng pete from LaaLaaPan in Woodland Hills. She makes her nasi goreng like her grandmother did, studded with wonderfully bitter sator beans that look like chopped green olives in the rice. The grains are slick with Indonesian sweet soy sauce, and mostly flavored with garlic and the earthy, nutty taste of candlenut, which Wnahyu uses as the base for many of her dishes. The rice is embellished with slivers of cabbage, peppers and diced chicken.
The peanut sauce acts as a thin glaze on the skewers. The rice is cooked with coconut milk, turmeric, lemongrass and coriander. It’s intended as a vessel for the rendang and other elements on the plate, but it could easily be its own dish. It’s salty, sweet and not quite crunchy. The texture and flavor is at once familiar and foreign. A bar snack or stir-fry depending on which utensil you use to eat it, and your mood.I’m prefacing this next recommendation with a plea for patience. Kadar Wati runs a mostly one-woman show at Wayang, a small Indonesian restaurant in Alhambra.
“I feel so bad that it takes me so long,” she said after a recent visit. “I pray for the people who come in. They are hungry already and I don’t want to disappoint them.”
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