Following her viral Jean Paul Gaultier collection, Simone Rocha's fall collection was called 'the wake' and inspired by Queen Victoria's mourning dress.
Simone Rocha knew her Fall 2024 collection would be about mourning her Jean Paul Gaultier couture collection, before either were even born. The designer considers the three collections she created in the past year—two for her eponymous brand, and one as guest couturier for Jean Paul Gaultier Couture—to be a 'trilogy.' “I couldn’t not think about them at the same time,” she told me back in January, before the couture show.
As would be expected with a collection inspired by death, there were plenty of all-black looks. But they were Simone Rocha’s take on an all-black look, which meant there was sheer paneling, faux fur detailing, crystal-embellished breast pockets, and plenty of tulle. The notion of protection also felt well represented in long tent-like dresses made to look like a children’s nightgown with a large bulbous bow tied at the center, worn with large stuffed animals clutched at the chest.
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