The restaurant will take you to Saltillo, a desert in Northern Mexico.
new Fort Worth restaurant Don Artemio. The ebullience in this room — and among the people who created it — is infectious.
A floor-to-ceiling wall of clay bricks from Mexico bisects the dining room at Don Artemio in Fort Worth.And some Texans might learn a thing or two about traditional Mexican food. Burciaga is ready to respectfully explain the menu. For instance: “In Mexico, we don’t drink margaritas,” Burciaga says — and so, there’s not a margarita on the menu. “A lot of us get a shot of tequila with a Topo Chico and a glass of ice.
The younger Cárdenas can take credit for one of the restaurants’ best entrees. His Chilean sea bass atop mole negro, with a seared plantain on the side, is an exuberant bite at once: buttery fish, smoky mole and sweet plantain. Executive chef Cárdenas says the mole includes 40 or 50 ingredients. Diners should start with a shareable appetizer like white fish and salmon ceviche or chile rellenos stuffed with confit cabrito. But one dish that would feel the most at home in Saltillo would be the fried cactus served on housemade tortillas. These nopalitos fritos are fun to build and better to eat — the crunch of the nopales, the zing of the salsa, the soft pull of the tortillas.Adrian Burciaga, general manager of Don Artemio, runs the front of the restaurant.
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