'Culinary detective' Eleanor Ford traces ancient maritime trade routes from Indonesia to the Middle East in third cookbook.
“Nutmeg is a spice in itself that’s got so many amazing stories and facts attached to it. I couldn’t believe the gems that I kept digging up. Because it really is a spice that has captured people from all around the world’s attention. It’s included in so many cuisines. It features so heavily in customs and culture and cooking. And so really, it was a rich vein to tap into.”
In its raw state, nutmeg’s firm, pale flesh doesn’t have much fragrance, Ford explains. But once cut away from the seed , simmered and turned into jam, it takes on a sharp, unmistakable scent., Ford examines “the original cradle of spice.” Using recipes as maps, she charts the ancient maritime trade routes stretching from Indonesia to the Middle East. Heart of the spice trade, nutmeg was the hook. But every spice is a hero.
She describes spice as being a story of two equally important halves: one rooted in conflict, empire and colonization; the other emblematic of exchange and cooperation. “But I also, on another hand, think that the history of the spice route when it’s written by historians often focuses in on that. And that it’s also important to look at that story that stretches millennia back, where there was so much peaceful exchange and trade. And look at the good that came from that.”
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