Even in the few weeks I have spent here, I have sensed an unresolved tension that goes back a century
. This fault-line lies between those who covet this place for its beauty and isolation and who want it to remain as undeveloped as possible, and those for whom tourism was a way – the only way even – out of the brutalities of high-altitude subsistence agriculture.
The statistics are telling. In Vernamiège for instance, a community a little to the west of here, infant mortality fell from 122.2 per 1,000 between 1915 and 1925 to 36 per 1,000 30 years later. Today I both understand why that farmer once targeted Weber with dung, and rejoice that this valley did limit its “development.”Global warming, though, is a whole other matter. In Chandolin, at give-or-take 2,000 m, they are more insulated from a changing climate.
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