How to Temper Eggs

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Here’s everything you need to know about egg-tempering, so the next time you’re whipping up a custard, you can keep those eggs from creeping over to the dark side.

As easy as it is to harness the power of eggs for good, it can also go wrong all too quickly. If you drop an egg into hot liquid, it will scramble, leaving you with a broken, weeping, and curdled custard or sauce. The keys to preventing this from happening are gradual heat and dilution. This is often achieved through the process of tempering, in which you slowly add some of the hot liquid to the eggs while vigorously whisking, before combining it all.

Gradual heat is the second key to setting a perfect protein matrix. You’re more likely to reach the correct final temperature for a custard or flan—and not overshoot it—if you go low and slow. The same is true if you’re infusing milk or cream with vanilla or spices, heating them together to extract as much flavor as possible. If you were to add eggs directly to the hot liquid with a, the rapid temperature change would cause them to curdle before they were fully diluted. Once again, you’d need to temper them.

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