Tourists who dream of experiencing an unblemished view of the heavens from the ruins of a famous castle can head to Scotland this autumn and winter
The rolling landscape around Dumfries could claim to be one of the most underrated tourist destinations in Britain. Caerlaverock Castle, for example, with its battered walls, drawbridge and moat, is a medieval fortress straight out of central casting. The survival of so much of the castle into the 21st century is a minor miracle, although the interior is currently closed so safety checks can be carried out.Not all visitors have been welcome.
A detailed contemporary report about the siege provides us with a blow by blow account of the defenders’ dogged resistance. Today, it’s a haunting semi-ruin where the silence is only broken by the sounds of children playing or the cry of birds from the nearby national nature reserve. Just down the hill from the Cairndale in the heart of Dumfries, you encounter a trail dedicated to, Scotland’s national poet, who lived in the town in the 1790s.
The blood-red sandstone of the ruined Sweetheart Abbey, which stands south of Dumfries, is a memorial to a love affair for the ages. It was founded in the 1270s by Lady Dervorguilla of Galloway, the grieving widow of Lord John Balliol. She is said to have carried her husband’s embalmed heart, which was placed in an ivory casket, with her everywhere. When she too died in 1289, Dervorguilla was buried in front of the abbey church’s high altar, clutching her husband’s heart to her bosom.
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