How the Backyard Grill Took Barbecue Out of the South

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How the Backyard Grill Took Barbecue Out of the South
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In 'Smokelore: A Short History of Barbecue in America,' author Jim Auchmutey explains the origins of home grilling

Barbecue was too good a thing to remain the property of southerners, Texans, and people in a few other pockets of the country. During the suburban housing upsurge after World War II, a domesticated version of the old hickory pit spread across the land and became a familiar part of family life in America. It didn’t require digging a trench in the yard, only some basic building materials.

Yet here was a California-based magazine proudly claiming the word “barbecue” for the Left Coast and its bounty of foods. “Why is it that practically everybody in the West has a barbecue, is planning to have a barbecue, or wishes he had one?” the book begins, going on to suggest that everybody wanted to eat outside because of the agreeable climate, not some ancient tradition transplanted from the East.

The most familiar early cooker came from Weber-Stephen Products of Palatine, Illinois. George Stephen, a welder at the Weber Brothers Metal Works in Chicago, liked to cook out but wasn’t happy with the open brick pit at his home because he couldn’t control the heat or the smoke enough for his liking. The metal works made buoys for use on the Great Lakes. Stephen cut one of them in half, attached legs, and added a domed lid with vents to regulate heat and smoke.

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