'To really understand what it meant to me, first I had to reject it.'
For the majority of my life, my Koreanness has existed on the fringe of my identity in almost every way. I can make basic conversation or finagle directions to the nearest train or bathroom, but I also basically flunked out of Korean language school. The last K-drama I watched wasGrowing up, my appetite mirrored this too.
It wasn’t until I started cooking for myself that, surprisingly, I found myself missing the earthy nuttiness of the soybean paste stew called doenjang jjigae, and the funky heat of a pot of kimchi jjigae brimming with soft slices of tofu. As an adult, I constantly crave the flavors of the food I so unwittingly took for granted.
My desire to immerse myself in Korean cooking is what led me to call up chef Sohui Kim, who owns two wonderful restaurants in Brooklyn and who has had a similar journey of first pushing aside, and then eventually embracing, the food of our culture. She even ended up writing an entire cookbook about it, calledAdvertisement
I proposed we spend a day cooking our way through her versions of my all-time favorite childhood dishes; you can find all of those recipes in the March issue of
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