Meet the man ushering in a fabulous new era at Paco Rabanne.
was then on an almost decade-long hot streak. “I started to get offers from other brands, but I refused,” Dossena recalls. “I called my parents and said, ‘Okay, you’re going to have to trust me. To get to Balenciaga, I may need to go back to interning, so please stick with me for just another moment, I promise you it’ll be the last time.’ ” With help from the late fashion buyer Maria Luisa Poumaillou, he was finally offered an internship in 2008, and soon after a proper job as senior designer.
In 2012, before both he and Ghesquière left Balenciaga, Dossena launched a small line of his own called Atto, which focused on tailoring and fashionably reworked staples like gabardine tunics and white cotton button-downs. Shortly thereafter, the stylist Marie-Amélie Sauvé, who worked with the team at Balenciaga, introduced Dossena to Marc Puig, the CEO at Paco Rabanne. Eight months after joining the label, Dossena was promoted to full-time creative director, and Atto had to go.
Six years in, Dossena is on his way. Paco Rabanne’s sales in 2018 doubled those of 2017, and the same rate of growth is expected for 2019. “In fashion, there are good times and bad times,” Puig told me. “You have to live with it. But this guy, he’s on fire.” Recently, Dossena has complemented his sleek sportswear with bias-cut dresses and crisp suits in exuberant prints, cocktail-length bustier frocks with dramatic trains, and glam military-inspired outerwear.
By the time the shoot wraps up, the sun is starting to go down. Dossena switches on the pair of Gae Aulenti Patroclo table lamps he got on eBay seven years ago. “They’re like scuba helmets, and I love that golden light they give off,” he says. “I’d never find them anymore.” He says he misses having the time to bargain hunt, but he’s not complaining. Kissing everyone goodbye, he gets a little sentimental.
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