How Boursin Taught Me What Cheese Could Be

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How Boursin Taught Me What Cheese Could Be
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Everyone remembers their first love.

Like many Americans, I grew up eating Cracker Barrel Cheddar, an aspirational purchase for my family. Cracker Barrel was, made from milk, cultures, and salt. This was a significant distinction back then, in the dark days before the artisan cheese revolution of the past twenty or so years, when “American cheese” was synonymous with processed cheese, not clothbound cheddar from Vermont or goat cheese from California.

In college, as the master of my own grocery list, Boursin became my “splurge” item, a self-designated entry into the creamy, salty, herbaceous world of adulthood, a way to celebrate the success of bringing home my first paychecks. I defined my burgeoning independence and striving worldliness through the sophistication of my grocery store purchases.

If there are a set of fixed characteristics that make a cheese universally appealing, the original Boursin Garlic & Herbs flavor has almost all of them. First, the texture: creamy and light, it’s like a bar of cream cheese got high on nitrous oxide. The soft-serve ice cream of cheese, its lightness delivered in a cloud of whipped butterfat. How can something be so airy and so dense at the same time? The mystery is part of the allure.

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