How a former lunch lady opened one of the year's most exciting restaurants

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How a former lunch lady opened one of the year's most exciting restaurants
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From lunch lady to leading chef, Beatriz Martines opens one of the year's most exciting restaurants

pening a restaurant is full of unpredictable twists and turns, but as chef Beatriz Martines prepares to debut Xalisko in The Woodlands, she said there’s one constant: “Without corn, there’s nothing.”

Martines worked for nearly a decade alongside Houston’s most notable Mexican chef, Hugo Ortega. With Xalisko, the 40-year-old is finally ready to step out on her own while honoring her father as much as her Mexican heritage.The restaurant’s name refers to the Mexican state of Jalisco, with the “j” and “c” replaced by different letters that have the same pronunciation.

Pulpo en salsa de chorizo, a grilled octopus with roasted tomato-chorizo sauce, capers, olives and confit potatoes. They had two children before Martines landed her first job as a school lunch lady in the Cypress-Fairbanks Independent School District. On the side, they ran a catering business called Taquizas.

But Martines landed a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity in 2014 when she got picked to intern at the El Celler de Can Roca in Girona, Spain. It was considered by many, including the prestigious San Pellegrino awards, the best restaurant in the world at the time.

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