Why one writer decided to take the Kumano Kodo trail through the forests of Japan—without a guide.
Departing our guest room at the Akizuno Garten before sunrise, my friend Diana and I arrived for our morning appointment at the Senko-Ji temple, a sanctuary located on the outskirts of Tanabe City in the Wakayama Prefecture of Japan. Trekking up a curved slope and climbing a series of stone steps, we found ourselves near a graveyard from which we could hear Iwahashi Zenichi, a Buddhist priest, already at work.
”After making our own bento boxes with the women chefs of Akizuno Garten—and befriending two best friends who worked at the hotel’s café that gifted us the most delicious vanilla soft serve I tasted in Japan—we hit the trail. Ascending through the forest, beyond giant pine trees and lakes with mirrored views of autumnal leaves, we arrived at a traditional guesthouse in Chikatsuyu, where we slept on tatami mat floors and drank copious amounts of green tea.
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