Helmut Lang Fall 2024 Ready-to-Wear collection, runway looks, beauty, models, and reviews.
Peter Do’s Helmut Lang debut came in for some sharp reviews. This season’s should be better. The collection is more confident and less fussed-over than his first, and for a bonus he had Kirsten Owen, the archetypal Helmut Lang model, in pole position.
Among the critiques last time was Do’s failure to recapture the vibe of a Helmut Lang-the man-show—that feeling of being in the room with the in-crowd seeing new fashion as it was happening. The fact that it’s an exceedingly rare feeling doesn’t make people long for it any less. Do’s onetime boss Phoebe Philo had the touch, but it’s not something that can be taught.
What Do has going for him is his tenacity. Asked about his reviews, he said, “the last show was a foundational reset; we spent a lot of time working on those blocks , and all of those blocks for spring became these. I couldn’t be here without doing that first.
Do said he was thinking about protection and projection, and how the two qualities are intertwined. The chin grazing collar of an oversize shearling aviator would ward off a chill and look boss, too, while the mid-layer garment modeled after a bullet-proof vest was all projection—no good in a gunfight, but a useful accessory for accentuating a well-formed torso.
The weakness in Do’s armor might be the literal lifts from the Helmut archive. For instance, the Chinatown bag plaids, whose fashion lineage traces from Lang to Philo’s Celine via Marc Jacobs’s Louis Vuitton, seem designed more for Instagram than real life. But as Do becomes more assured, he’ll learn to rely on them less and his own sartorial skills more.
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