Models walk the runway during the Maison Margiela Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on Jan. 25, 2024.
artisanal show during Paris fashion week in January, British designer John Galliano stunned the fashion world with a collection that featured innovative tailoring and theatrics that hearkened back to his renowned runway shows in the 1980s and 1990s. Inspired by the portraiture of Brassaï, the show aimed to capture “a walk through the underbelly of Paris, offline.
Galliano’s rise to fame in the 1980s and 1990s was in part achieved by designs that placed historical themes at the forefront. Many of his most famous collections recalled the 19th century as a period of both luxury and instability. As commercialization accelerated in major European capitals, new areas of public leisure like department stores altered class and gender relationships.
Today, Galliano carries these same anxieties about commodity culture into his most recent collection. The 2024 Maison Margiela show represented a call back to a once-great period of Galliano fame, as the collection displayed familiar techniques of staging, choreography, and theatrical makeup that typified his runway shows in the 1990s. These references cater to Gen Z, a generation enamored withwhich has caused a resurgence in styles like low-rise jeans.
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