As Chloé confirms that creative director GabrielaHearst will be leaving the French fashion house after its spring/summer 2024 collection in September, Vogue takes a look back at how the designer has re-energised the brand with a strong sense of purpose.
Gabriela Hearst is recounting an episode from her childhood that probably sums her up in a single paragraph. “When you grow up on a ranch, you don’t mess around,” warns the Uruguayan designer. “I remember being eight-years-old, and this huge tarantula shows up on the veranda. But like,.” Her hands indicate the size of a dinner plate. “And I didn’t call my mum or dad for help.
It’s one of the reasons she is so incredibly unfazed by anything less than certain death. Like her no-fuss approach to helming the Parisian brand, when she already heads up her own eponymous brand in New York – where she also has a husband and three children. Add to that a life mission to save the planet; because when it comes to her unyielding commitment to sustainability, Hearst is one of fashion’s forerunners.
Via a Zoom call, Gabi – willowy, 5ft 11in, her hair untamed and without a scrap of make-up – is striding across the showroom at Chloé HQ, a little to the north of the Champs-Elysées, to grab her favourite piece from her debut collection: the “puffcho”, a puffer-poncho hybrid that’s as firmly rooted in Chloé’s archives as in Hearst’s own Uruguayan background.
This first autumn/winter 2021 collection – put together in only two months, and presented on what would have been the hundredth birthday of Chloé founder, Gaby Aghion – paid tribute to the house’s legacy of bohemian femininity but with a profound emphasis on sustainability. Hearst used recycled cashmere and bought deadstock fabrics from mills for a series of floor-skimming sweater dresses, and masterfully took on the classic Chloé flou with an array of fluttery pleated slips.
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