Remember when we were all wrong about MSG? A history of the ongoing umami obsession.
It’s what makes miso mouthwatering and Doritos delectable. Some chefs have even taken this savory ‘fifth flavor’ to extremes. Now a more balanced approach is replacing umami bombs with newly nuanced recipesSHORTLY AFTER Momofuku Ssäm Bar opened in New York City, in 2006, the chef David Chang began serving a dish there called bo ssäm.
The classic Korean recipe calls for boiled pork belly with cabbage leaves and condiments, but in typical Chang fashion, he dialed the flavor up to 11. The Momofuku version starred a pork butt cured overnight and then slow-roasted with a coating of brown sugar and salt that formed a crust the color of mahogany. Diners wrapped ribbons of that roast pork in lettuce along with briny oysters, rice, kimchi, ginger-scallion sauce and ssamjangÊ, a spicy Korean dipping sauce.
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