For a Better Tater Tot Casserole, Start From Scratch

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For a Better Tater Tot Casserole, Start From Scratch
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Ditch the cans for a fuller-flavored, fresher twist on this Midwestern classic.

. Because the basic formula for béchamel is so simple, it's a cinch to jazz it up. One of my favorite tricks is to infuse the milk with other ingredients, which allows you to change the flavor while maintaining that smooth and silky texture.

The mushroom-y milk, on the other hand, is just getting started. I combine flour and butter in a saucepan, stirring over medium heat until it forms a roux—a simple paste with incredible thickening powers. Though some roux are cooked until they turn a deep brown, this sauce doesn't call for such a dark, toasty flavor. After about five minutes, the raw, starchy aroma of the flour subsides, at which point I start adding the mushroom milk, whisking in just one tablespoon at a time.

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