Food Picks: Elevated chicken rice at Nook, grilled fare at Setsuri, Oishi Pan Bakery’s curry puffs

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Food Picks: Elevated chicken rice at Nook, grilled fare at Setsuri, Oishi Pan Bakery’s curry puffs
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  • 📰 The Straits Times
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Chef Koh Han Jie of newly opened Nook is a rising talent to watch on the dining scene.

Futomaki from Setsuri Ishinomaki, Curry Puff from Oishi Pan Bakery, Seafood Stew from Nook.The last time I had chef Koh Han Jie’s food, he was heading the kitchen team at Ce Soir in Portsdown Road. What a talent, I thought then. Such finesse.

And then I bite into ginger flower with a wedge of tomato, and that is another unexpected and delightfully aromatic hit. Lest you think this is a salad of soft textures, there is a little pile of puffed red quinoa, offering toasty crunch. The chicken, priced at $42 for half, is brined for two hours, dry-aged seven days and roasted to order. Look, after all that, I cannot tell if it was the enzymes or the brining and dry ageing that produced a delicious roast chicken. Life is too short to eat chicken breast, I have always thought, but I will eat this one any day.Order Koshihikari Rice to go with the chicken. It has the usual chicken rice aromatics you would expect. What I do not expect are the crunchy things on top.

You can choose to have the maki with prawn, Hokkaido crab meat, unagi or spicy garlic beef. I would go with prawn or crab, which will not overpower the other ingredients. The 50-seat restaurant specialises in different Japanese ways of grilling food. There is genshiyaki, where food on long skewers stuck in wood ash grill over binchotan; warayaki, where food is grilled over straw; robatayaki and rogama, where food is grilled slowly over binchotan.

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