This is a dress with a story, and Elizabeth Emanuel wants to tell it.
Shocking pink with a plunging, ruffled neckline and body-hugging shape, the gown was designed by Emanuel for Lady Diana Spencer to wear at a Buckingham Palace party a few days before her marriage to Prince Charles in 1981. It was a visual coming-out event for the future princess, until then largely known for her conservative sweater-and-pearls look.
Acting on an idea that took shape during Britain's long coronavirus lockdowns, she did it for herself, for her archive. But also because she wanted to show another side of Diana, who Emanuel believes has been misrepresented by "The Crown," the popular Netflix series that has brought the story of the princess and her ill-fated marriage to a new generation.
One of the things the series does right is retrace Diana's style journey, from the cardigans and bows she wore when she first stepped into the public eye, to frothy ballgowns with frills and flounces and finally to her becoming a global fashion icon in Versace, Dior and Chanel. But after her engagement to the future King Charles III, she began to grow into the glamour of being a princess.
"I think there was a message being sent with this dress, really. That she'd been previously known as Shy Di, but in this dress she definitely was no longer a Shy Di."
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