Demand for period jewels has been on a steady, and steep, upswing. Here's how to buy in.
The through-line that connects every piece of jewelry worth collecting “is the story behind it,” says Suzanne Martinez, co-owner of Lang Antiques. She joined the business as an experienced gemologist and appraiser in 1992, the year after co-owner Mark Zimmelman, a third-generation gem and jewelry dealer from L.A., purchased it from founder Jarmilla Lang.
Jewels from the perennially sought-after Art Deco era are a no-brainer. Dating roughly from 1919 to 1939, the Deco years—named for the influential Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes, held in Paris in 1925—yielded a much-loved style of jewelry characterized by geometric motifs, stylized patterns and clean lines rendered using a prodigious use of diamonds.
“We have a lot of pieces that are not signed that are better than signed pieces,” she says. “It could have come out of the same workshop as Cartier. People need to look beyond the signature.
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