This new Williamsburg restaurant is breaking the mold of how traditional restaurants in New York City work.
The owners of Brooklyn institutions Walter Foods in Williamsburg, Walter’s in Fort Greene and the adjacent Japanese cocktail bar and izakaya Karasu received a message in 2018 from a broker who wouldn’t let up, saying she had a space in East Williamsburg they couldn’t pass on.What they found was a huge place — even by outside-the-city standards — on the corner of Manhattan Avenue and Meserole Street, boasting 1,500 square feet, high ceilings and tons of natural light.
“What really attracted us about the space was not having to pull out a table for somebody to slide in,” Dodd adds. “You can relax and feel like you’re on vacation a little bit, instead of being churned in a two-top for an hour and a half.” Apollonia is an all-day café that turns into a full-service restaurant at night. Photograph Courtesy of Apollonia/Henry Hargreaves
The overall ethos of the restaurant speaks to where both Minch and Dodd are in their lives. When they first started in the business, they came from bar backgrounds — Dodd used to bartend at Balthazar and Minch owned Barrio Chino, a restaurant on the Lower East Side. They’d spend long nights drinking and partying, then get up to do it all over again the next day. Now, they’ve got families and are trying to take care of their minds and bodies.
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