Daily News | EMei remains one of Chinatown’s best restaurants as the neighborhood faces uncertainty
” for Chinatown, a neighborhood that’s faced so many challenges in its 150 years.
I happen to be a devoted Sixers fan who also wants to see Market East thrive. The Sixers say they promise they will build “ethically and equitably.” But will it be sustainable? I’m a skeptic. Stadiums come and go every 30 years. But Chinatown is irreplaceable, a still-vital legacy from 19th century Philadelphia thriving at the city’s geographical heart that is one of the last remaining enclaves of its kind anywhere in America. Its demise would be a tragedy for everyone.
The kitchen staff has withstood its own attrition by promoting from within, including Honduran-born Andres Aleman, a longtime former dishwasher trained by Zhao to be a chao guo . They produce dozens of intricate dishes, balancing not only Szechuan’s famous numbing spice, but also the myriad textures, temperatures and precision knifework that are the hallmarks of a well-tuned kitchen.
The silkiness of the diced soft tofu and ground beef in West Lake beef soup sparkled with white pepper, fragrant sesame oil and the herbal burst of fresh cilantro. The anise blaze of chili oil and peppercorns lit the vivid orange crusts of perfectly fried shrimp, the crustacean counterpart to the Chongqing diced chicken tossed with dried chilies that’s a nod to Wan’s home region.
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