Don't let your eyes glaze over, it's important!
, for example, you could cook cipolline onions with a vinegary glaze, using the acid to cut through the fattiness of the meat. But with a leaner turkey breast, you might not want that pickled flavor, which is why it’s important to taste while you cook and adjust your seasoning accordingly.
This might seem all too loosey-goosey, but that flexibility is actually an insurance policy against underseasoning—when you roast vegetables, there’s not nearly as much opportunity to taste and tweak as you go. For a Thanksgiving meal, with all of its earthy and autumnal flavors, Lo sometimes likes to let the sugars in a glaze caramelize a little in the pan, right at the end of cooking. “In a glaze, you don’t have to [caramelize]—you could do it without getting that darker flavor. But I think it adds complexity, it adds warmth,” she said. “It’s really about your taste and what you think goes with each ingredient.
Doing the opposite could lead to mushy vegetables. Likewise, pouring out extra liquid before it becomes a glaze means wasting all of that delicious salt, sugar, and fat. Once you’ve gotten comfortable with the technique, varying your acid and source of sugar, you could try complicating your dishes even more—adding a spoonful of gochujang or miso near the end, for example, or just lots of fresh chopped herbs. As Lo said, “It’s a classic French technique, but as with anything classic, you can riff on it and fine-tune it to the way you like it.”
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